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// 12 Reasons Why Brooke Raboutou Qualified for the 2021 Olympics

Tue, 24 Sep 2024 12:39:45 GMT

On August 18, 2019, 18-year-old Brooke Raboutou became the first (and currently only) American to qualify to compete in the 2021 Olympics by placing 9th at the IFSC Combined World Championships in Hachioji, Japan. With hundreds of talented female climbers gunning for just 20 spots in the Olympics–only seven of which were up for grabs at the World Championships–Brooke’s qualification is nothing short of spectacular. But why her?

Here are 12 of the hundreds of reasons why Brooke Raboutou qualified for the 2021 Olympics:

But first: Congrats Brooke!

ONE: She’s been climbing since she was a year old.

Sure, she probably tottered up to the easiest downclimb around and maybe got one foot up to tickle the lowest hold, but dabbling in climbing since she could walk and climbing consistently since age four has given her tendons of steal, nearly flawless technique, superior strength, incredible endurance…we could go on, but you get the idea.

TWO: She won the genetic lottery.

Her parents, Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou and Didier Raboutou, are both world champion climbers. So in the nature or nurture battle, she can check off nature.

THREE: She grew up in an elite climbing family AND facility.

To add to number two above, growing up with elite climbers for parents who continued to dedicate their lives to climbing post having kids checks off the ‘nurture’ side of the nature vs. nurture debate. More importantly, having one of the top kids’ climbing coaches in the world as a mom, coach and mentor didn’t hurt. And, when your mom also owns ABC Kids Climbing , an elite climbing training facility built specifically for kids, and you spend all of your free time there, it’s pretty hard not to improve at climbing. That said, Brooke’s parents clearly did a great job of fueling and supporting her stoke for climbing without pushing her so hard that she burned out–likely another perk of having lifetime climber parents. Shawn , her older brother, is also a talented climber, and we can only imagine that some healthy sibling rivalry might have fueled her progression in the sport as well.

FOUR: She grew up in Boulder, Colorado.

One of the climbing meccas of the country. Many dedicated professional and non-professional climbers move to Boulder for the year-round outdoor climbing access and crusher climbing community. Brooke is a Boulder native, so growing up in a climbing-focused community provided her with friends and mentors outside of her immediate family to fuel her passion, along with loads of outdoor climbing opportunities on a wide variety of rock types.

FIVE: She’s been competing since she was seven.

Which means two things:

1) She has over ten years of experience performing under pressure in competition settings.

2) She grew up in the competition scene after the style had shifted from resembling outdoor rock climbing to more parkour-style movement. Where older World Cup competitors such as Angie Payne and Alex Johnson had to learn coordination dynos years into their competitive climbing careers, Brooke has trained and competed on the new style since approximately day 1.

SIX: She’s a well-rounded climber.

Not only has she earned some impressive competition results (read: wins), she has sent up to V13 and 5.14c outside and was the youngest person to send 5.14b outside at the age of 11.

SEVEN: She knows how to speed climb AND has experience with the combined lead, bouldering, and speed format.

Brooke has competed in speed climbing in youth events for years, including the Youth World Championships, where she took first in the All Around (lead, bouldering, speed) category in 2016. This set her up to feel comfortable competing in all three disciplines back to back–where most older competitors (late 20s+) had never touched a speed wall before they learned about the combined format for Tokyo 2021. At the 2019 World Championships, Brooke preformed best in speed (6th) out of all three disciplines, finishing 7th in lead and 10th in Bouldering.

EIGHT: She’s a sponsored athlete.

Which means she isn’t trying to make ends meet working a 9-5 like most of the rest of us who started climbing in or after college. No, she didn’t quit school to train 10 hours a day, but summers off and financial support for international climbing trips and competitions from some of the top climbing companies in the outdoor industry can’t hurt.

NINE: She doesn’t ‘just climb’.

Spending summers climbing outdoors in France likely helped keep her from burning out on indoor sessions and competitions during the school year, but Brooke has also prioritized school in her non-climbing time. She’s currently a sophomore at the University of San Diego.

TEN: She loves climbing.

Okay, duh, but this one’s important. We all have those days when we don’t feel like going to the gym, but after 14 years of consistent climbing, Brooke has to still be overly stoked on the sport to train and compete at the level she does while in school full time.

ELEVEN: She climbed well when it counted.

All of the above wouldn’t have mattered if she’d had a bad day at finals. Interestingly, Brooke hadn’t climbed her best early in semis, barely qualifying for finals in 19th out of the 20 available spaces. And according to an Instagram post , she had been dissatisfied with her performance at each of her previous World Cup competitions this past season. However, she was able to put any mistakes made early in the competition aside to finish 9th in finals–where it counted.

TWELVE: Luck was on her side.

Seven females qualified for the Olympics at the combined World Championships and Brooke placed 9th. BUT, only two competitors of each gender can qualify from any one nation. Since Japan had four female competitors in the top seven spaces, and they are guaranteed one climber of each gender as the host country for the games, three of the Japanese competitors couldn’t qualify, bumping Brooke into one of the seven qualifying spots.

Dang are we stoked to watch Brooke compete in the Tokyo summer Olympics. It’s always rad, motivating and inspiring to watch her train at EVO Lou when she’s in the Boulder area, and we hope to support her in any way possible as she continues training.

And, of course, our fingers are crossed that more Americans qualify for the games at the World and Pan American Olympic Qualifying events.

Follow Brooke here .

//Local Limelight: Our Planet

Wed, 22 Apr 2020 13:56:44 GMT

HAPPY EARTH DAY

Today (and every day!) we are celebrating this rad planet that we live on and all of it’s craggy goodness. We put together some resources on how you can do your part to enjoy and conserve the outdoor spaces that we all love!

We are also excited to have our first online Fireside Chat TONIGHT with Access Fund, tune in on Zoom at 7pm EDT to talk conservation, stewardship and ethics with AF Board Member, Hilary Harris, and AF’s NE Regional Director, Mike Morin.

COVID-19 RESOURCES

Wondering what the heck is happening with outdoor policy in the midst of Covid-19? American Alpine Club and Outdoor Alliance do a great job of highlighting what is going on, and what to keep an eye on when it comes to protecting our public lands in a time when the media is saturated with Covid news.

Climbers and Outdoorists across the nation are in a predicament of when and whether or not it’s appropriate to recreate in our favorite outdoor spaces while keeping in mind the safety and health of our community – Access Fund has been compiling and updating guidelines and resources based on where you reside. Check it out and be sure you’re being compliant with local regulations in an effort to flatten the curve!

DO YOUR PART

So, how can you get involved and do your part in working towards conserving and protecting crags and public lands across the nation?

Every climber should be aware of and commit to the Climber’s Pact .

As climbers, we have a personal stake in the health of our outdoor landscapes —without them, we have no place to climb. But as our sport continues to grow in popularity, we are loving our climbing areas to death. Join us in making a few minor adjustments to your climbing practice that will protect our outdoor landscapes and the climbing experience we love. The future of our sport depends on it.

Access Fund also has some great climbing advocacy resources available that support crags all over the US, including right here in NE.

Take action today!

// Climbing with Kids: Tips and Tricks to Get the Most Out of Indoor and Outdoor Sessions

Tue, 11 Feb 2020 13:35:27 GMT

Calling all climbing parents, parents who want to climb more, parents who want to meet other climbing parents and parents looking to foster their kids’ passions for climbing: Your job isn’t easy. Trying to balance meeting your own climbing goals with supporting your family can be tough. BUT there’s good news:

1) You’re not alone. We’re parents too, so we get it. We’ve had to adapt our climbing schedules to accommodate soccer games, play dates and birthday parties. Some seasons we get outside a lot and others we focus on family fun time away from rocks. We don’t always get the balance right, but that’s okay.

2) You CAN find a balance that works well for you most of the time. It will take time. It will not be perfect. But it is possible.

So how does one find said magical balance between family time and family climbing time? Here are some tips and tricks for climbing with kids from climber mom Kate Beezley and EVO Owner and father of two Clint Dillard:

Tips + Tricks for Climbing Outside with Kids

Make friends with other climber parents and their families. Other parents understand the struggles of taking kids to the crag and are often better equipped than your bachelor friends to balance watching the kiddos with trying hard. It’s also easier to keep everyone’s kids entertained when they have other kiddos their age to keep them company.
Climb in a group of three+ adults whenever possible, so one person can climb, one can belay or spot, and one can keep an eye on the kiddos. This way everyone gets the climb time, breaks, and peace of mind needed for a productive outdoor session.
Bring your kids’ favorite snacks to the crag. Better yet, make it the only time they get their top 3 favorite snacks. They’ll instantly love cragging.
Also bring special toys climbing. Again, they’ll go from ‘why do I have to walk in the woods’ to ‘yay climbing!’ when they see their favorite stuffed dog go into their pack. If you can, leave the screens at home and encourage your kiddos to play outside in nature as much as possible.
Have your kids help pack and carry their own packs as soon as they’re old enough to do so. It helps them take ownership of their day outside and gets them invested in the outdoor climbing experience.
Dress your kiddos in the brightest clothes you can find at your local thrift store to make them easy to spot.
Implement a ‘Last call’ before someone starts to climb. This is your kiddos’ last call for help opening a snack, getting a toy and/or using the ‘outdoor facilities’. It’s also a great way to teach them that once you are belaying or climbing you are not available until the climber reaches the ground. This likely won’t work every time, but it’s good to work toward.
Practice ‘forest peeing’ and going ‘number 2’ in the woods. More often than not, your kiddo will have to go poop the second you are on the wall and/or belaying. Always pack a wag bag, or, worst case scenario, a dog poop bag to pick poo up with. Whether your kid is in diapers or fully potty-trained, ALWAYS bring extra underwear and old grocery or chip bags and/or ziplock bags for poopy clothes and diapers. Designate a pocket of your pack to holding this kind of trash…just don’t forget it’s there �� You can also bring your child’s training potty to remain consistent with toilet training at home.
The challenges of taking kids outside change as they age. Non-mobile babies need to eat frequently, but they stay put in their carrier. Toddlers are more self-sufficient with feeding, but you need an adult to watch them constantly (insert 3+ adult climbing party here). See age-specific climbing tips below for more on this.
Switch off climbing days with your spouse/partner. For example, you climb outside with your friends on Saturdays while your significant other watches the kid(s), and then (s)he gets to climb outside Sundays while you take a rest day to chill with the fam.
Engage your kids in climbing–if they’re interested. Find small boulders that they can send, let them try easy routes on top rope, or set up a ‘rope swing’ after you lower down from your project as a special treat. The more you can engage your kids in your climbing day, the more they’ll enjoy the process. That said, if your highly responsible 8-year-old and 10-year-old just want to sit in the van in Rifle and read, that’s okay too.
Stick to single-pitch sport climbing or bouldering on days you take the kids outside and save multi-pitch and technical trad for days you have someone else to watch them.
Prioritize making time for yourself–the put your oxygen mask on first idea. A parent who takes care of her/himself emotionally and physically is more present, focused and there for her/his kiddos than one that is burned out and frustrated.
Beware of dogs! Ask dog owners if their dogs are good with kids, and then teach your child how to introduce him or herself to pups in a non-threatening way and with your permission/supervision.

Age-Specific Climbing Tips

Climbing with your baby:

Remember that your newborn needs time to build their immune system up BEFORE you carry them to the crag. Start with walks around the neighborhood before you take them into the woods.
Non-mobile babies are relatively easy to climb with besides the extra weight of carrying them on the approach. Have one parent carry the baby and the other carry the extra baby gear.
Pack a folding camp chair and mosquito net to make mid-session feeding breaks as comfortable as possible. Just make sure to set up your camp away from rockfall and possible precipitation.
Pro baby tip: Packing a tarp can be a rainy-day savior.
And don’t forget to pack yourselves a nice lunch to boost moral and make the day that much more enjoyable.

Note: If you are a mom with a new born, it’s important you don’t rush back into your old climbing/fitness routine. Your body has been through a lot, and it’s important to consult a professional about what level of exercise that is right for body.

Looking for other moms to climb and work out with? Join the Tuesday morning EVO Louisville Climbing Mamas Meetup and/or Strong Mamas fitness class .

Climbing with your toddler:

Just when you nailed climbing with a baby, your baby decided to start crawling and trying to eat every rock at the crag. The toddler years are some of the most difficult, but it won’t last forever. Here’s how to make the best of things:

Carry as many of your kiddos’ favorite snacks and toys as you have room for.
Hire a sitter for the days you really want to get outside without distractions. Doing so does NOT make you a bad parent. It IS OKAY if your kiddo cries their eyes out in childcare. You should NOT feel guilty about taking time for self-care. Taking said time for yourself WILL make you a happier, kinder, more understanding parent.
Accept that you’ll find yourself climbing inside on bluebird days and occasionally getting zero pitches in on outdoor days due to temper tantrums etc. This is okay. You’ll be climbing more soon.
Pro toddler tip: Hang their kid carrier in a tree, tie a sling to their carrier, then clip the sling to your harness while you belay. This way you can swing them as you walk back and forth belaying your partner.

Climbing with your preschooler:

Climbing with your kiddo just became 400% more fun!

This is the time to invest in little climbing shoes and a harness, so you can set up mini top ropes and rope swings to further introduce your child to climbing.
Experiment with leaving more toys at home. Play games and explore cracks and mini caves on the approach to engage them in the nature experience.
Pro pre-school tip: Pack a hammock for your kiddo to swing in and for you to power nap in.

Climbing with your Kindergartner:

Ah, climbing is (almost) back to normal. Further engage your kiddo(s) in the sport by having them carry their own gear, put their own harness and shoes on (with supervision) and pick climbs. You can also sign them up for indoor climbing classes and camps, so you’re not the sole person teaching them to climb.

Kid-Friendly Climbing Areas

Bouldering areas with short approaches: Horsepens 40 (AL), Buttermilk Boulders (CA), Joshua Tree (CA), Carter Lake (CO), Flagstaff (CO), Guanella Pass (CO), Horsetooth Reservoir (CO), Lincoln Woods (RI), Hueco (TX), Joe’s Valley (UT) and Smuggler’s Notch (VT) to name just a few.
Sport climbing areas with fixed anchors and semi-flat belay areas: Castle Rock and Nip and Tuck crags in Boulder Canyon (CO), Rifle (CO), Shelf Road (CO), Table Mountain (CO), City of Rocks (ID) Ten Sleep (WY), and many of the crags at Joshua Tree (CA), the Red River Gorge (KY), Rumney (NH), The Gunks (NY), Mount Rushmore (SD), Spearfish Canyon (SD) and New River Gorge (WV) to name a few more.

Tips and Tricks for Climbing Inside with Kids

Many of the outdoor tips and tricks can be applied to climbing indoors as well. Here’s how:

Climb in a group of three parents, so two people can climb/belay and one person can watch the kids climb.
Enroll your kiddo(s) in an after school youth program or climb/team program (details below) and use those 90 minutes to get your climbing session and/or workout in.
Boulder inside as a family. Teach your kiddo how to warm up and project. Spot them on a climb that’s hard for them, and then teach them to rest while you try a boulder that’s hard for you. Repeat. Note: This works best for kids who already love climbing and/or are comfortable behaving themselves in a crowded bouldering area.
New parents: Find a gym that allows you to bring a stroller or car seat inside and top rope, lead, or boulder next to your baby–just make sure to keep them away from fall zones. If your schedule allows, try to do this during morning or early afternoon hours when the gym is less busy.
Find a gym with in-house childcare.
Snack and toy rewards work well for indoor climbing days too. Treat your kiddo(s) to their favorite snack for trying a hard boulder more than once, getting to a new high point on the wall, and/or being stellar in childcare.

Family-Friendly Offerings at EVO Louisville

4- and 12-week Youth Programs for kids ages 2+
Youth Club + Team
Indoor and Outdoor Summer Camps
Birthday Parties + Special group climbing rates
Kids’ Fun Days during BVSD days off
On-site Childcare for ages 6 months to 6 years, M-F 9a – 1p and 3:30p – 7p, Sat + Sun 9a – 1p
Special Unlimited Childcare + Climbing EFT memberships (with NO startup fee!) for kids 6- (this membership good for both EVO Louisville + EVO Kids)
Discounted Family Membership Rates for 3+ people (2 adults and 1+ minor(s) residing at the same address)
Special $10 drop-in rates for 9:15 am yoga and fitness classes, including our Strong Mamas fitness class designed specifically for prenatal and (any stage!) postpartum mamas (non-mobile babies welcome). Sign up here .
Tuesday Moms’ Climbing Group: Join us after Strong Mamas for climbing, hanging out, swapping stories and chilling with babies. Join the Facebook Group for updates.
Kiddo- and Family-Friendly climbing areas including a climbable fortress in the ‘Room of Doom’

Questions? Email Nicholas@evorock.com youth programs inquiries. Email Noelle at fitness@evorock.com for Mom’s climbing + fitness inquiries.

NEW: EVO Kids!

That’s right, our brand new kid-specific climbing and ninja obstacle course gym built for kids by big kids is now open across from Sweet Cow in Downtown Louisville. Double bonus: Your EVO Louisville membership is good for EVO Kids. Triple Bonus: All EVO Lou day passes and punch passes are good for EVO kids too (and vice versa).

EVO Kids Open Gym Hours:
Fridays: 4p – 8p
Saturday + Sundays: 10a – 5p
Date Nights
Birthday Parties
4-Week Intro Classes
More!
Answers to more of your burning questions here.

Kid-Friendly Offerings at EVO Concord

Youth Programs for Kids Ages 3+; all ability levels welcome
Club + Team openings for athletes Ages 6 – 19
Indoor + Outdoor Summer Camps
Kids’ Climbing Fun Days during teacher in-service days + no-school holidays
Boy and Girl Scout overnights and merit badges
School League
Birthday Parties
Team Building
Special Group Climbing Rates
Portable Climbing Wall Rental for off-site climbing fun

Kid-Friendly Offerings at EVO Portland

Kid-specific climbing areas
Youth Programs for kids ages 4+; all ability levels welcome
Team EVO for athletes ages 7 – 19 wishing to compete in the USA Climbing Youth Circuit
Indoor + Outdoor Summer Camps
Kids’ Climbing Fun Days during teacher no-school holidays + teacher in-service days
School League
Birthday + Overnight Parties
Team Building sessions
Special Group Climbing Rates
Portable Wall Rentals for off-site parties

Wow that was a lot of info. Throughout this entire process, remember that your kids are tiny humans with their own personalities. Climbing may not be their sport. And that’s okay.

// Meet EVO Programs Director Nick Miller

Wed, 13 Nov 2019 13:18:56 GMT

Meet Nick Miller, Programs Director for EVO Lou and EVO Kids. Nick grew up in a tiny town you’ve never heard of somewhere in Indiana. Luckily he wandered west and discovered climbing while working with youth at an experiential education science school in California. Now he’s stoked to combine his passions for climbing and education at EVO to help youth and adult athletes surpass their expectations within the sport.

Here he is telling us a little more about, well, himself:

So we’re on the record?

Yup! Anything you say can and will be put on the internet ��

Okay, good to know [smiles].

How did you get into climbing?

I grew up in Indiana, where climbing really wasn’t a thing. I moved to Southern California to teach at an outdoor science school right after college where climbing was part of the curriculum. I saw what [climbing] did for kids, especially for their confidence.

One day I went to the gym and was hooked. I’ve been climbing four days a week ever since. That was 10 years ago.

Heck yeah! Do you mostly climb in the gym or outside?

A good mix. My wife and I try to get outside once or twice a week.

Any favorite local crags you’d recommend?

Clear Creek Canyon in the summer and Carter Lake bouldering in the winter. Trad might be coming one day, but for now we’re avid sport climbers and boulderers.

Any winter projects?

None till spring. We’re heading back to Font in April, so we’re trying to get strong this winter to maybe be able to climb like V1 there. It’s so hard [laughs].

When did you discover your passion for working with kids?

It’s always been what I wanted to do. I was an education major and loved working with kids but found the traditional classroom wasn’t a good fit for me. Then I found outdoor education.

When I worked for the outdoor science school, I got a group of kids at 10a and taught 3 classes till 5p. During those classes we went out on a 2 mile hike, and I taught each class along the way. This style of experiential education changed my life. I saw kids that didn’t fit the mold in the traditional classroom thrive.

I worked at that school for 2 years and moved into management while there. I found that when I was teaching kids directly I could reach those 20 kids, but if I could impact my 40 or 50 staff, then I could impact the thousands of kids that came through the program.

When I saw this job at EVO, I was like this is it; this is what I want to do: staff development, rock climbing, kids. Now that I’m here, and it’s everything I’ve hoped and dreamed.

We’re stoked you’re here! So EVO Kids just opened in Louisville, CO. What are you most excited for?

I’m excited for kids to have a space to truly be kids. A space where you can teach the ethics of climbing to kids with kids. It’s also cool that the building is right downtown. It’s going to be convenient for parents–to allow them to drop their kids off and do things they want and need to in town while their kids are in youth programs. That way we’re supporting everyone within the family. I’m also looking forward to having more programs for younger age groups and new equipment to diversify our programs a bit.

Are you referencing the ninja-style obstacle courses?

Yeah, the challenge-based obstacles will appeal to more kids. I’m looking forward to using ninja training to introduce kids to climbing who might not have had an interest in the sport in the first place. And it goes the other way too. We all evolve as climbers and need breaks as well, which is where some of those ninja-based activities come in for the dedicated youth athletes.

And ninja obstacles translate well to the new parkour-style of competition climbing route setting.

As comp climbing becomes more and more popular, I think that style of climbing will be more interesting to younger groups specifically.

I think it’s important for kids to find their direction and their path. Maybe it’s competition climbing; maybe it’s trad climbing. The EVO Kids space will allow us to offer the full spectrum of climbing, so kids can discover what they want to do.

What is the funniest interaction you’ve had with a kiddo you’ve worked with?

Oh man, there’s a lot [laughs]. I’ve worked with thousands of children, but one child who tried to explain who I was to her mom stands out. A few days into the program I was teaching, her mom came up to me and asked ‘are you Nick’? And I said, yeah. She said, “okay, my daughter was trying to explain to me who you were, and I asked what you looked like, and she said, ‘well his hair is always up in a tundle bundle’.” Kids say things that are so honest. And I was like, yeah it’s true [my hair] is kinda a mess. [For the record, Nick had dreadlocks at the time. His hair is no longer dreaded. Or messy.]

What is your favorite part about working at a climbing gym?

The passion that is shared here. Not everyone is here specifically for climbing, but everyone is extremely passionate. It’s super motivating, especially on a professional front, to see people so driven. It inspires me to make myself better, both at work and outside of work too–you’re around people who inspire you to be better in whatever direction you choose.

The community aspect of a climbing gym is what’s most important to me. It is what has kept me in the sport for a decade, and it’s a big reason why we’re still here in this state.

Interested in Youth Programs?
Learn more about EVO Louisville Youth Programs here .
More about EVO Concord Youth Programs here .
More about EVO Portland Youth Programs over here.
EVO Kids Youth Programs will be available winter 2020, but you can learn more about them over here.

Many thank yous to Nick for taking time to chat with us about all things climbing, kids climbing, outdoor climbing and being recognized for his (no longer) messy hair.

// Vertical Hot Rods — A Speed Climbing Primer

Tue, 08 Oct 2019 13:00:07 GMT

The notion of speed climbing conjures logo-emblazoned NASCAR uniforms. Events that take place on Sunday! Sunday! Sunday! Stadiums filled with throngs fueled by equal parts testosterone and energy drink. A place where they “sell you the whole seat, but you’ll only need the edge.” Mix climbing into the speed cocktail and what do you have? A muscle car drag race without the cars.

So, what is Speed Climbing all about?

Like the quarter-mile track, every speed climbing course is the same. They all have the same holds—actually the same two holds, 20 identically juggy hand-holds and 10 identically fantastic foot jibs—in exactly the same configuration on a wall that is always exactly 5 degrees overhanging for exactly 15 meters. (There is a 10-meter version, but the Olympics and international competition use the 15-meter route.) The route is standardized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) to ensure consistency.

The world record is just under five and a half seconds, which is closing in on seven miles an hour, a rate that would see Everest summited from sea level in less than an hour. Of course, it’s not the same thing, but it puts it in perspective.

What do people speed climb?

Head-to-head competition to most climbers is the antithesis of climbing’s appeal. Likewise, the idea of not just doing the same 5.10 every time you come to the gym, but also for every climb in your session, makes most of us want to quit climbing immediately. Thus, speed is the oddball discipline in an already outlier sport—less than 2% of the population participates in any form of climbing, and most of those climbers have never touched a speed wall. But for those who love the dynamic sprint-style of climbing inherent in racing up the 15-meter route, speed climbing is anything but boring.

It’s also worth considering that in the last 30 years most of climbing’s formerly fringe variants have become very much the norm, think: light and fast alpinism, sport climbing, bouldering, gym climbing and parkour-style competition climbing. When climbing evolved in these directions, the United States initially scoffed, and the rest of the world got on board and excelled. Eventually, the US embraced these categories wholesale with an eye toward dominance. The new crop of youth gym climbers has mostly embraced speed climbing, so it likely won’t be long till it’s just as popular as bouldering–with waits for burns on indoor speed routes similar to those seen around the newest bouldering set. For better or worse, speed climbing is one of the three disciplines included in climbing at the 2020 Olympics . It might be time to dispense with the skepticism.

Related: EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT CLIMBING IN THE 2020 OLYMPICS

Why you should try speed climbing:

Even if you don’t compete, there are solid benefits to including speed work in your sessions. Climbing faster means being more efficient, which saves strength for crux moves and gets you to rest holds sooner. It’s also a great way to train powerful, dynamic movement, which, again, will allow you to use less energy on bigger, harder moves. So during your next session, try timing yourself on route a bit below your limit to see how fast and efficient you can be. Or give the real speed wall a try. Give it several goes and track your progress. Just picture yourself as a hopped-up muscle car…just without the car.

// Everything You Need to Know About Climbing in the 2021 Olympics

Tue, 01 Oct 2019 12:58:36 GMT

40 athletes.

3 disciplines.

6 medals.

Climbing at the Tokyo 2021 Olympics sounds pretty darn simple right? Wrong. The format has our eyes crossing and athletes on their toes. Here’s what’s up:

The 2021 Olympic Game Format for Climbing:

20 men and 20 women (max 2 climbers from any one nation) will each compete in three climbing disciplines, lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering in Tokyo. Here’s how it’ll work:

Qualifiers:

Each of the 20 athletes will be given:

2 attempts at the speed route
5 boulder problems with 5 minutes to climb each boulder in the fewest number of attempts possible
2 lead routes that the athletes will be allowed to preview ahead of time (‘flash’ competition format)

The athletes will then be ranked 1-20 in each discipline above based on their results. These three rankings will then be multiplied together (Ex. 1st in speed X 3rd in bouldering X 7th in lead = a multiplier of 21), and the eight athletes of each gender with the lowest multipliers will advance to finals.

Finals:

The top eight athletes of each gender will then compete all three disciplines again:

Speed: Athletes will race head to head in Quarter Finals, Semi Finals and Finals, with the winner of each advancing on to the next round. (Think March-Madness-style brackets .) The athlete who climbs the fastest in finals wins this discipline.

Bouldering: Athletes will climb three boulders with four minutes to climb each boulder in the fewest number of attempts possible. The athlete who climbs the highest on the most boulders with the fewest attempts will rank number one in this discipline.

Lead: Athletes will climb one route. The athlete to climb the highest on the route wins this discipline.

Similarly to Qualifiers, the athletes will be ranked 1-8 in each discipline above, and their rankings will be multiplied together. The climber with the lowest multiplied score will take gold.

Why the combined format?

The Olympic committee only gave climbing as a whole one set of medals (gold, silver, bronze) per gender, instead of one set of medals per discipline. So, to be as fair as possible, the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) decided to implement the combined format to avoid excluding any discipline.

How do climbers qualify for the 2021 Olympics?

Seven women and seven men qualified at the Combined World Championships in Hachioji (Tokyo), Japan in August 2019 (see below).

Six additional men and women will qualify at an Olympic qualifying event in Toulouse, France, on December 1, 2019.

One man and one women from each continent (the winner of each continental championship) will qualify between February and May 2021–depending on when each championship is held. ( Five additional athletes per gender total.)

Japan , as the host country, is guaranteed one athlete of each gender .

And finally, the Tripartite Commission will select one additional male and female athlete to compete.

However, only two athletes of each gender can qualify from any one nation.

(Or post-send ice cream) for, you guessed it, more sending. Gym session are also a great way to burn off backyard barbecues, farmers’ market snacks and treats from your favorite local bakery.

Who is going so far?

From the Combined World Championships:

Women:

Janja Garnbret (Slovenia)
Akiyo Noguchi (Japan)
Shauna Coxsey (Great Britain)
Aleksandra Miroslaw (Poland)
Petra Klingler (Switzerland)
Brooke Raboutou (USA)
Jessica Pilz (Austria)

Men:

Tomoa Narasaki (Japan)
Jakob Schubert (Austria)
Rishat Khaibullin (Kazakhstan)
Mickaël Mawem (France)
Alexander Megos (Germany)
Ludovico Fossali (Italy)
Sean McColl (Canada)

Related: 12 REASONS WHY BROOKE RABOUTOU QUALIFIED FOR THE 2021 OLYMPICS

Why it sucks to be a speed climber in 2021:

While many lead climbers and boulders have complained about having to train speed for the Olympics, it’s speed climbers who are getting hosed by the combined format. It’s much easier to learn one new discipline than two, and speed climbing has the fewest variables of any discipline, as it’s always the same route with exactly the same holds placed in exactly the same positions. All athletes have to focus on is climbing it as fast as possible. While this is no easy feat, it’s arguably easier to learn and train in a year than it is to learn the nuances of every move that might be included in the lead and bouldering routes. And with the three-discipline multiplier score qualification system, it’s unlikely that the top speed climbers in the world will qualify for the games at all–as its unlikely they will be able to come close to making the podium in lead or bouldering, making their three-discipline multiplied scores much too high to qualify.

We don’t know about y’all, but it’s a bummer that we will likely see a lot of non-speed-climbers competing in Speed in 2021–not as exciting as watching the fastest athletes in the world compete. It also leads us to question how “fair” the combined format is to all athletes. Not saying we have a better solution, but it’s a bummer for speedsters for sure.

How to win the 2021 Olympics:

Since athletes’ rankings will be multiplied, they obviously want the lowest multipliers possible. However, one poor score (ex. 20th in speed) and 2 fantastic scores (ex. 1st in bouldering and 2nd in lead) will result in a better overall multiplied score (here 40) than if an athlete is well rounded (ex. 5th in each discipline for a multiplied score of 225). So, should the top lead climbers and boulders focus on trying to podium in those two disciplines instead of putting time into catching up on speed? Or should they focus just as much effort on speed as the other disciplines in anticipation of speed scores being the deciding factor between the top lead climbers and boulders? For example, if one athlete comes in first in bouldering and second in lead and another places second in bouldering and first in lead, their speed ranking will decide who wins gold and who takes silver (assuming no athlete placed 3rd in both lead and bouldering and first in speed). Thus, we’d say training all disciplines is imperative.

What about climbing in the 2024 Paris Olympics?

Tentatively, climbing has been given two sets of medals per gender for the 2024 Olympics, which will allow for speed climbing to be it’s own separate event–bouldering and lead climbing will remain combined. Additionally, more athletes will be invited to the games, with 20 men and 20 women qualifying in bouldering and lead and 16 athletes of each gender competing in speed (a total of 72 athletes instead of 40). However, this format is only provisional. The final decision to include climbing in the Paris 2024 games will be made in December of 2021, after the summer 2021 games in Tokyo.

What other sports are new to the Olympics in 2021?

Wait, there are sports other than climbing out there?!?

As it just so happens, there are. And you will now be able to watch surfing, skateboarding, baseball, softball and karate in the summer Olympics.

// A Beginner’s Guide to All Things Trad Climbing

Thu, 12 Sep 2019 12:28:11 GMT

Trad is rad. It opens you up to hundreds of thousands of unbolted routes–including some of the best climbing in the world (El Cap anyone?). It’s also mentally engaging, as you must decide where along a route to place certain pieces of gear, instead of just finding the ideal “clipping stance” like you would on a sport climb. Beyond that, there are many techniques and movements only found on trad routes. Offwidth climbing is a prime example. Okay, enough about how great trad climbing is. You’re here to get started. Here’s how:

How to Start Trad Climbing

ONE: Learn to place gear.

Whether you learn from a mentor, indoor gym clinic , outdoor guiding service or via YouTube (the latter is not recommended as your sole guide to gear placements), you need to understand the basics of placing cams and stoppers both on route and at belay stances (no, there aren’t always bolted anchors…).
Once you understand the basics of what a good placement does and doesn’t look like, put in lots of mileage placing and cleaning gear. The goal is to be able to look at a crack and immediate know what size cam or stopper to place and then place it quickly. Climbing ‘splitter’ cracks in Indian Creek is ideal for dialing this in, as you’ll often place a half dozen cams of the same size in a row on it’s consistently-sized cracks.

TWO: Buy some gear.

Doubles (two of each size) of finger (.3 Camelot) through fist-sized (number 3 Camelot) cams, a set of stoppers AND a nut tool is a good start. Continue to develop partnerships with other trad climbers, so you can combine racks for cracks that require loads of only one size cam.

THREE: Choose a size.

Most entry level crack climbers will go straight for grade validation. Who can blame them? Those with small hands will tick their first double digit sends on finger or thin hands cracks. These routes cater to the type of face-climby skills one can readily train in the gym. Those with bigger hands will revel in thuggy cupped hands and fist cracks. Committed climbers will chose sizes that are hardest for their physical dimensions. Tackle one size at a time to diversify your skill set, that is if you dream of someday freeing El Cap or multi-pitch routes in other locations with varying crack sizes.

FOUR: Stop Laybacking.

Laybacking is the face climber’s (ahem, sport climber’s…) way of avoiding learn to jam. While often effective on toprope, laybacking robs the leader of visual pro placement and has led to more than one serious injury; it’s hard to know if you’ve placed a piece well if you can’t see it. Laybacking is also the best way to instantly brand yourself as the crag gumby. Not good.

FIVE: Get the right shoes.

After reigning supreme in the old-timey days, non-compression fit, flat-soled, looks-like-a-cross-between-a-hiking-boot-and-converse climbing shoes disappeared from the market. Today, shoes like the La Sportiva TC Pro offer the crack climber a high-performance, all-around shoe for everything from fingers to offwidth. And yes, you can free the Dawn Wall in them–if you climb 5.14d that is. Save your aggressively down-turned slippers for the gym, steep sport and—when you graduate to techy fingertip cracks—the occasional 5.13 finger crack. Not a fan of high tops? Try a comfy all-around shoe like the Mythos —it’s also at a friendlier price point than the TC Pro.

SIX: Start Training.

To train specifically for hands, fists, offwidth etc., you’ll need to find a gym with either set cracks or crack volumes, or, if you live near lots of outdoor cracks, spend as much time as possible on them before or after work and on the weekends. If neither of those are an option, you can build a wooden crack machine in your garage or basement.

Off the wall, you should focus on core. Crack climbing engages the whole body, leaning heavily on an unbroken connection between the jammed lower body part (foot, calf, hip or knee) and jammed upper body part (fingers, hands, fists, arm, head, etc.). Since climbing is not a rote set of robotic moves, keep mixing them up: Hanging core, TRX core, floor core with an emphasis on planks and versions of leg lifts/v-ups…you get the idea.

Related: Offwidth specific training

And for extra credit: Anaerobic threshold and interval training. Years ago, one particularly diabolical trainer put me on a circuit of one indoor pitch, immediately followed by a set of kettlebell swings, pushups and jump squats. These were repeated with a one-minute rest between sets. While I’m no training expert, I suggest that some nearly-puke-inducing variation on this theme will help at the very least with upping your tolerance for suffering (quite necessary for offwidth cracks). The above regimen put me in good stead for a Yosemite visit, where the climbing seemed like a restful vacation after a few weeks of the above.

Desert Tower Tips

ALWAYS wear a helmet on desert climbs. Expect loose rock and parties climbing above (and knocking rocks down in the process…).
Use caution on the approaches to protect the fragile cryptobiotic soil. Stay on the climbers’ trails, and keep on bedrock whenever possible.

Pete Takeda is a writer, climber and mountaineer based in Boulder, CO. Pete’s pretty neat.
Featured Image Credit: Clint Dillard

// Local Limelight: Meet EVO LOU Head Setter Alexandra Fox (Part II)

Wed, 20 Mar 2019 12:16:06 GMT

Monday thru Thursday, you’ll find Head Setter Alexandra Fox inside, bolting plastic holds onto the wall with an impact driver. But, outside of her career, gym climbing isn’t really her thing. Her climbing soul lives in the outdoors. While she creates routes indoors for others, the climbs she selects outside are done for herself.

Tell me about intention in route setting.

When I set out, I have a section of wall, a hold color and a target grade. I pick holds and have a general idea of what I’ll do, and then I get on the wall and some of that will translate and the rest is just improv, sort of feeling through it. I set from the top of the wall down. So it’s all in reverse from how you’ll climb it.

Have you ever had you ever set the perfect route?

There is no such thing as a perfect route.

Have you ever gotten close?

I’ve set routes I’m very, very proud of. I wouldn’t change any part of them, but that’s my interaction with the route. Another person could walk up and think it’s complete garbage. There’s a subjectivity [to it]. But I feel like if something could be perfect, everyone would have to be able to enjoy it. I hate leaving people out.

So is it art or is it a product?

It is a commercial gym. Ultimately it’s a product…

…that demands an artfulness to create?

That’s probably fair.

But it appears you’re also designing in the same way an architect designs a building.

I do think the line starts to blur a little bit because, in theory, anyone could pick up a drill and put holds on the wall and say, “Oh look, I set a route.” People actually want a climb. I think that puts intention into what you’re doing and pulls it a little out of the pure construction world.

Do you think a route has to answer to only one creative vision or does it have to accommodate many?

I think it has to accommodate many. Unless you’re setting for yourself on your home wall and you’re the only person who’s going to touch it, you have to account for everyone who will interact with it. Every opinion is valuable.

How does this inform your gym setting?

One of the best things you can do with commercial setting is provide options. The great thing is I am not putting all the climbs up. I am not the sole creator in a bubble trying to please everyone. I am a part of a team.

How important is your crew?

Nothing can happen without them. Just as there are so many variables in routes, there are a huge number of personalities. We are all sort of temperamental weirdos and with very strong opinions. So there’s always going to be this push and pull on a setting crew. You need it.

Which do you prefer, climbing indoors or outdoors?

I consider myself much more of a rock climber than a gym climber, even though my entire professional life revolves around the gym. If the weather is beautiful and I have the day off, I am not setting foot inside, even if the local climbing isn’t a style I prefer. Even now that I’m in Colorado and surrounded by so many [rocks], I’m the crazy person who will drive 10 hours to Hueco for a weekend or 12 hours to Northern Arizona for three days.

Tell us about a favorite climb outside.

One of my favorite moments was several years ago. It showed me why I climb.

I had just started climbing in Northern Arizona, at Priest Draw. There’s a V6 roof called Anorexic Nerve Dance. I’d climbed V6 in the Southern California, and I was like, okay, I should be fine. I got my butt kicked. It couldn’t do any of it. It was humbling. I didn’t realize how big the style difference actually was.

So I became obsessed with roof climbing. It would shut me down, but I really want to do it. Priest Draw was a six-hour drive from where I was living, but I made many, many trips back there. Slowly I learned the moves.

One weekend, I drove down, I walked out [to the boulder], put my shoes on, and climbed it. I don’t actually remember climbing it. I think I cursed a bit as I was topping out because I always do.

What if there was a single problem out there that only you could do? Would you wish that to exist?

No. I’d feel like so proud of myself for doing it, and I’d want to share it with people, and they’d just be upset or disappointed. That would destroy it for me.

What should people look for when they climb at EVO?

They should look for climbs that people set for them. We’re not setting for ourselves; we’re trying to give you something. We don’t always succeed, but it is for you.

Missed Part 1 of this interview? Read it here.

Interview by Boulder-based professional climber, mountaineer and writer Pete Takeda . Pete’s pretty neat.

Featured Image: Alexandra climbs The Girl at Priest Draw, AZ.

// Local Limelight: Meet EVO LOU Head Setter Alexandra Fox (Part I)

Wed, 13 Feb 2019 12:05:05 GMT

Alexandra Fox, like the climbs she creates, is a bit of a puzzle. The more layers one pulls back, the more nuanced the picture.

In a world racing forward in the wake of Year of the Woman, Alexandra’s ascent to Head Route Setter is timely. She’s one of the few females in the country to occupy the position – one that depends on strong, steady leadership as well as craft. Her job requires a balance of strength, grace, talent and compassion. And if you ask Alexandra, there’s a certain inevitability about it all.

Alexandra also embodies her fair share of contradictions. Route setting blends the kinesthetics of movement, the sculpted choreography of a climbing wall, and the rigors of manual labor. In contrast, V10 climber Alexandra has also been described as “soft spoken” and a “classic beauty.” She double majored at CU Boulder in Poetry and Japanese. Appearance-wise she has the features and poise of a model, a field she’s also dabbled in, though one whose stage for the last six years more resembles a construction site than a set. Creating routes is a noisy, dusty routine, cluttered with ladders and buckets of plastic resin holds, and she crushes it.

Why route setting?

I like challenges. They keep me busy. I hate being bored, and I hate routines.

How did you get into setting?

It was totally on a whim. I knew the head setter in a gym in southern California. He asked me if I would be interested in setting a few boulders just as a volunteer to try it out, and the rest is history.

Why do you think he’d asked you?

He watched me climb and knew my foundation and movement was pretty solid, and I’m a short girl. We kind of have bounties on our heads right now. Every gym wants a short female route setter. Climbing has grown to a broader audience, and there are more women in your gym. If you can point to a female setter, then you’re giving another perspective.

Someone once told me they could tell where someone started climbing by watching their feet for three minutes.

Really? I like the idea, but I think people climb in too many different places and have too many different influences to just say, oh, this is the one place where you learned.

So maybe you can tell where they haven’t climbed.
Is the creative process bringing stuff together or is it a process of elimination?

Oh, that’s hard. I feel like it’s more a process of playing and not being afraid of either. I really like breathing and like feeling the things I’m creating. You have those deep breaths [when] you have more space [between good holds]. Then you maybe take some things away, make it minimal, and then you add stress and you add tension, and your breathing becomes heavier and more rapid.

Where did you start climbing?

The first time I ever climbed in was the Boulder Rock Club. And then shortly after that I started climbing at The Spot.

Were you able to pick out any specific route setters?

I kind of put them all on a pedestal. As a route setter now, I find this funny, but as a new climber I was like, ‘Oh, this is hard for me. They know what they’re doing and I need to figure it out.’

So was that a process of figuring out an objective like best solution? Or did you have to think like the setter?

I think a little bit of both. Setters have intentions, and they might have multiple intentions for the same sequence. Your success often depends on your ability to see what they intended. A good setter will have their intention be the easiest solution.

Does their personality comes across in the sequence?

Absolutely, [I’ll] give you an example. A setter I admire, Nick Foster, is kind of a large imposing man, fairly stoic, but oddly playful. His routes kicked my butt because he’d set these big powerful moves that I could do, but had to commit to. He really liked putting me on his routes because he’s a foot taller than me, so a move that didn’t feel that bad to him would feel completely different for me. But if I can could do the move and enjoy it the same way he did it and he enjoyed it, that’s a good route.

So the route is also a teacher.

Yes. Routes, especially in gym environments, are instructional. You have to cue the climber into what you want them to do. The other option is to throw a bunch of finger buckets up a gentle overhang. Call it 10-plus, and there’s nothing to it. You’re just getting difficulty out of the angle and the holds. But the best setting, no matter what environment you’re in, has intention behind it.

Is there a limit to the number of variables or is there an infinite number of experiences I could have in this finite space?

Theoretically, yes. There are only so many holes in the wall, and there are only so many holds you can put in them. But it’s still a very, very, very big number before you get to forced repetition.

That’s interesting. There are a number of variables. Just like if a number of personalities…

There are definitely a lot of personalities, and that’s why I love setting with my crew here. I also love traveling and setting with other people in other gyms to see what they are doing.

Are there other women doing this too?

There aren’t very many. There’s been a big push in the industry recently to have more female route setters. It’s intimidating, and it’s hard work, so I understand why there aren’t as many as people would like to see. And, as a female route setter, there is always a microscope on you.

So you feel like you are scrutinized more?

Absolutely. People expect more from you. They expect you to be working harder than anyone else.

Can you give me an example?

Moving big 12-foot A-frame ladders—they’re heavy and cumbersome, and it’s not unreasonable for anyone to ask for help. But, as a female route setter, I’ve been told that if I can’t move my own ladders, no one will want to work me. That was one person’s perspective. I know plenty of others who don’t share that, but that was said to me.

We’re trying to be progressive, but there are so many ingrained tendencies that I don’t think people even see them. [I’ve been told that] female route setters are ‘the Unicorns of the route setting world’…like I guess you mean that in a nice way, but I’m not some mythical creature. I’m a route setter.

I’m okay being held to a high standard, and I don’t want to be put on a pedestal. I want to carry my weight, and I want to work hard. I don’t want to be the token female route setter ever; I want to be part of the crew.

We’re in a time of profound social change. Will you see the types of changes that you wish to see like in your lifetime?

I really hope so. I want to believe that people are capable of wonderful and great things and that things are only getting better. [Hopefully] someday there will be just as many female route setters as there are men, and they will not be treated differently.

Part II of Alexandra’s interview, where we talk more with her about intention in route setting and her own climbing (hint, hint, it’s usually not inside), is now available here.

Interview by Boulder-based professional climber, mountaineer and writer Pete Takeda . Pete’s pretty neat.

// 9 Reasons to Hit the Gym this Summer

Mon, 02 Jul 2018 11:52:14 GMT

1. Stay strong for your outdoor projects

Afterwork Eldo session are awesome — we sneak them in too — but it’s hard to maintain strength when you’re only getting in a few pitches before dark compared to the 15 indoor routes you cranked out every evening this winter. A few short maintenance gym sessions each week will keep you feeling sharp and strong for your outdoor projects without sapping your send energy.

2. Shirtless climbing season

#getshredded – whether you plan to pop top this summer or not.

3. Burn off those post-send beers

(Or post-send ice cream) for, you guessed it, more sending. Gym session are also a great way to burn off backyard barbecues, farmers’ market snacks and treats from your favorite local bakery.

4. We have AC

And fans. Lots and lots of fans.

5. Prep for Sendtember

The long days of summer are fantastic for outdoor mileage, but the heat can make sending tough. Keep training through the summer, and you’ll crush once the weather becomes cool and crisp this fall.

6. Afternoon thunderstorms…

Are unfortunately a Colorado summer staple. Don’t worry, our problems stay nice and dry.

7. You don’t have to wear sunscreen or bug spray in the gym

Which is a plus, because they both usually smell weird and feel funky. Pro tip: Use the spray stuff when climbing outside to avoid greasing up your hands.

8. Restorative yoga

And all of the other maintenance exercises (push-ups, push-ups, push-ups) you can do inside to keep your muscle groups balanced, shoulders open and body recovering quickly between sessions to help prevent injuries outside.

9. EVO Cookies

Fact 1: Your body needs carbs to refuel after a hard a workout.
Fact 2: EVO cookies contain carbs.
Fact 3: EVO cookies are also delicious, come in single portion sizes and are found at the front desk.

// Takeda’s Take: Thigh-Mastering Offwidths

Mon, 18 Jun 2018 11:46:35 GMT

A few years back, I anxiously pondered a bucket list of things undone. One standout was a mega offwidth crack near Colorado City first shown to me by a local named Steve Biggs. Formed by the juncture between an immaculate plane of red Navajo sandstone and a massive pillar, this perfect corner soars straight to the top of a 600-foot cliff. Biggs’ Crack offered me the opportunity to achieve a dream first ascent and contemplate the inevitable.

The crack is straight up blue-collar, in-your-face vertical-to-slightly-overhanging climbing with some foot trickery, chicken-wings and plenty of dry-humping up a flare. The best training for something like that is to spend a month wrestling offwidths in Indian Creek. Not having the time, nor available psych, I chose indoor training. The latter typically consists of diabolical bouts of inverted crunches, puke-inducing anaerobic intervals and withering sessions on the crack machine. The more you repeat, the fitter you get—until you get injured. Being old and, as I’d like to believe, wise, I decided to capitalize on experience, ingrained technique and cunning as opposed to overdoing it on such training sessions.

Having no crack machine within driving distance, I had to find novel ways of complimenting the occasional gym session with more offwidth-specific training. I recalled the late, great Craig Leubben—a true master of wide cracks—once describing, of all things, the Suzanne Somers ThighMaster as a training tool. In his experience this device, which resembles an oversize spring-loaded paperclip padded with foam rubber, was the ideal way to build the hip abductors, those hard-to-develop interior leg muscles that can pinch the outside edge of an offwidth crack.

I shall not attempt to describe the recommended ThighMaster “exercises.” To learn more of Suzanne Somers and her revolutionary product, click here (highly recommended).

According to Somers, “The famous ThighMaster…is still the best way to tone, shape and firm your inner thighs.” Being unconcerned with my thigh tone, I remained a skeptic. But, with a little more research, I discovered that training required, “just a few squeezes a day,” and what’s more, it was so “easy to use” that I could “work out and watch TV…100% satisfaction guaranteed!” —perfect.

Three days later, I pulled a second-hand ThighMaster Gold from a brown cardboard eBay box and started squeezing.

ThighMaster Training Schedule:

Three weeks
Three sessions per week
3 x 3 sets per session
Go to failure (this is harder than you might expect)
Rest well
Note: Television and beer are helpful to ease one’s way through a workout (Be prepared for an equally mental and physical challenge)

Turns out, Craig Leubben wasn’t joking. The ThighMaster works—for offwidth training at least:

Pete Takeda is off to the Andes in July. He’s heard there’s an 800-foot offwidth near Quisuarillo, and he’s psyched to see if his ThighMaster training will pay off again.

Takeda’s Take is a monthly blog by climber and mountaineer Pete Takeda . Pete’s pretty neat.
Featured Image Credit: Greg Mionske

// Local Limelight: Brady Robinson

Thu, 12 Oct 2017 11:16:53 GMT

Brady Robinson has been Executive Director of the Access Fund for ten years now. Along his journey, he has narrowly escaped an avalanche, dabbled in aviation, festered on a two-person portaledge with three grown men , and lived a dirtbag’s dream in Yosemite Valley.

Today, Brady is a full-time family man, outdoor enthusiast, and conservationist. Talking with him is an authentic and refreshing experience; he’s professional but maintains the grit of a climber and is informed without being patronizing.

Read on:

So, Brady, tell me about your history as a climber—especially the days of you eating pizza out of a trashcan .

(Laughs) I was an aspirational dirtbag. Back in those days, at least in Yosemite Valley, taking on an aura of homelessness was sort of a sign of legitimacy. I taught myself how to climb out of a book I bought in Minnesota. I survived that experience, luckily.

In college, I worked at a boy’s camp in the Poconos of Pennsylvania and was mentored by a real climber. That’s kind of where I learned a higher level of the craft. Eventually, I learned to ice climb and became an alpine climber.

My climbing history has been a combination of audaciously doing things I was not qualified to do, avoiding injury and then finding mentors along the way to help out.

Who was your main mentor?

Roland Rincon. He’s a geologist. He was mentoring me back in the day when 5.11 trad was still considered pretty freaking hard. He was willing to deal with me for whatever reason—very patiently.

Who was your primary climbing-partner in crime?

Jimmy Chin . I don’t know what my climbing career would have looked like without him. He’s my brother from another mother. When we started climbing together, I had a little more experience than he did, and we had a very good partnership.

We were well suited in climbing ability, risk tolerance, and goals. I was always better at hauling loads on the wall than he was—because I weighed more! But that was the only thing I was consistently better at. Finding someone you are well matched with on so many levels is a rare, wonderful thing.

Hear, hear. Where else did your adventures with Jimmy take you?

We went on three trips to Pakistan, and one trip to Patagonia. While we were training for one of our trips to Pakistan, I had brought an old Nikon FE manual film camera. I was teaching him the basics of shutter-speed and F-stops, and he took two or three shots on an El Cap climb. When I submitted all the photos to Mountain Hardwear, they picked one of his pictures. It was 1999, and that was the first photo he ever sold. A few years ago I gave him that camera and lens and said ‘this is the one that launched it.’

Now, I’m about to turn 45, and I think at this stage of life, there’s nothing like the friends you’ve shared transformative experiences with for decades. There’s a classic photo of Jimmy I’ll find for you; I’m wearing super short-shorts.

That’s always a good look! You mentioned that you became an alpine climber, but I understand you no longer embark on expeditions. What was that transformation like?

It was when I was in the Waddington Range with Jimmy , Conrad Anker and Peter Croft in 2002 that I realized I was surrounded by people who were professional climbers, and there was a big part of me that wanted that, but it just didn’t feel like my path.

When you’re on these trips with superstars, and you’re not a superstar, there are some moments of doubt as you try to find your identity and reflect on your life’s direction.

I don’t want to sound like I’m making excuses—it’s not that—it’s just, there are moments in anyone’s career where you wonder ‘am I going this way or that way?’

I had met the woman who would be my wife, I had an amazing career with Outward Bound at the time, and I didn’t want to be an expedition climber anymore. That was one of my last major trips.

We all find our paths. I am very happy with mine.

Where did your path take you after that?

My wife’s dad was sick, so we moved to the southeast to be near her family. I got a desk job which further extended my identity crisis, and to cope with that, I learned to fly airplanes.

Casual.

I was freaking out—it was my first desk job. I felt like I was settling and I still wanted adventure. It turns out, when you’re not a very good pilot, you can scare the sh*t out of yourself in a small aircraft really quickly.

I’m going to keep that in mind, for the next time I feel like I’m bored. What was the desk job?

I was the Operations Director of North Carolina Outward Bound . It was like non-profit management boot camp—an experiential MBA of sorts. I was in charge of all program safety, quality and efficiency. It taught me so much, and it’s why I was somewhat qualified for the job at Access Fund , which I started in 2007.

It’s been ten years since you became the Executive Director of Access Fund . What’s been the hardest part of your job?

One of the challenges in a non-profit is the concept of soft power.

What’s that?

We have to find a leverage point to make a difference in the world; we can’t just come out and tell people what to do because ultimately we don’t have any authority to do that. We have to weave ourselves through something, find some other kind of authority. Soft power is the medium that the Access Fund is working in most of the time.

We also deal with the fact that we’re an organization from Boulder, Colorado, and for many people, that’s a negative connotation. So when we are dealing with local climbing organizations around the country, how do we support them and ultimately advance our mission of keeping climbing areas open and conserved? Increasingly, the answer has been to hire regional staff and support grassroots, local efforts.

What obstacles have you (and the Access Fund ) overcome in the past decade?

At the beginning, back in the 90s, it felt like we were David in a David and Goliath battle. In those sorts of battles, slinging rocks at people is one of your only strategies. I don’t think we’re in that battle anymore. Climbers have a voice; people care what we say. We get a lot more done when we work with other people, organizations, and agencies. One of the things I’m most proud of on the political side is our work with the Inter-Tribal Coalition on the Bears Ears National Monument.

One product of this work is a beautiful letter that outlines the meetings we had between the climbers and the tribes. In the letter, the tribes say that climbing should continue to occur in Bears Ears, and furthermore, climbing should be explicitly mentioned in the Presidential proclamation that designates the monument. That’s huge. We spent years building trust over time. It got to the point that we agreed the best thing to do would be to independently write letters to the Secretary of the Interior, Sally Jewell.

That is the first time ever, in a presidential proclamation, that climbing or recreation, in general, has been mentioned. Obama signed a piece of paper that had ‘climbing’ on it. We could talk for a whole hour on the various partners, agencies, and work that went into making that happen. Just those two words: ‘rock climbing’ took over a year of advocacy.

Jeebus. That is amazing progress. In your TED Talk (2013) you said ‘human-powered recreation can help secure the future of the conservation movement.’ What are four things we can do today to get involved?

If you’re intrigued by Bears Ears, go check it out. Hike, bike or even rent a Jeep and ride into the middle of nowhere, just stay on designated roads please. Get out there and get dirty and experience these places, in whatever way that makes the most sense to you.
Pay attention and read news from sources you trust. When we pay attention, we are part of a ground swell that can exact a political price that affects decisions. The public process doesn’t always work the way we expect, but the administrators are listening.
Post on social media. Some people might call this political slacktivism, but it’s something. It all adds up. I don’t buy into the ‘everyone has to be a political expert to weigh in.’ For some of us, it’s our life, and for some of us, it’s 10 minutes. Do what you can.
Figure out the local climbing organization where you are and get on their mailing list. Throw them and the Access Fund a few bucks. If each climber volunteered one day a year, oh my god, that would be a tangible change.

We’re aiming to raise $5,000 for the Access Fund this month. For all of October’s activities, visit this page.

Alex Honnold + Freerider

Wed, 07 Jun 2017 11:09:47 GMT

In line with what Cedar Wright said: “Because there hasn’t been enough Alex Honnold in your feed lately,” we bring you more Alex Honnold.

Let’s recap real quick, (Italics to emphasize how punny I am): Honnold has had a long relationship with El Cap in Yosemite National Park. As Kat Long, of National Geographic, said, he “didn’t wake up one morning and decide to make the first historic rope-free ascent of Yosemite’s El Capitan.” He has free climbed El Cap, Half Dome, and Mount Watkins. He has climbed El Cap for 24-hours straight and holds the record with Hans Florine for speed climbing The Nose in 2:23:46. With each accomplishment, a simmering notion turned into a concrete goal: to free solo the 3,000-foot granite monolith, via Freerider .

He started training. He got to know the handholds “like friends.” He practiced mental preparedness, physical preparedness, and kept everything hush-hush. On June 3, 2017, he woke at 4:30 am, walked to the base, saw a bear running away in the early dawn light, and began the “greatest feat of pure rock climbing in the history of the sport.” Three hours and 56 minutes later, he casually stood at the top of the summit. “I could go do another lap,” he told Mark M. Synnott.

“Why?” Many people ask. Maybe the answer is this simple: “The whole pursuit of this dream has allowed me to live my best life, that makes me hopefully the best version of me.”

Photo cred: Jimmy Chin

Justen Sjong Joins EVO Rock + Fitness as Senior Director of Coaching and Training Development

Fri, 16 Dec 2016 10:42:28 GMT

Justen Sjong is a professional climbing coach whose reputation has been growing within the climbing industry for over 20 years. He has recently joined EVO Rock + Fitness as Senior Director of Coaching and Training Development. His role will include mentoring EVO coaches, overseeing competitive programs, and head coach duties.

So, Justen, when did you first start climbing?

I started in the Pacific Northwest in 1992. It was the first thing I was ever labeled as ‘good’. I was a self-taught trad climber and immediately got obsessed, like most climbers do.

Were you bouldering during that time, as well?

No this was before the bouldering phenomenon. Bouldering wasn’t cool yet; nor did it exist in the Pacific Northwest; Squamish, Leavenworth, Goldbar—bouldering in those spots weren’t established when I was living in the Seattle area.

Where did you move to after Seattle?

My future wife and I moved to Boulder in 1997, and I was overwhelmed with all the good weather and good climbs to be had. If you had the toughness of a Northwest climber, you had the toughness to climb here (in Colorado) year round. In Seattle, I would duct tape my Gore-Tex jacket to my arms, so rain didn’t go down my sleeves and climb aid in the pouring rain.

That sounds warm. What else were you doing in Boulder?

We bought a house in Louisville and I started routesetting for the Boulder Rock Club (BRC), and an opportunity to lead their youth team program was thrown in my lap—that was very exciting. The youth program at the BRC produced Daniel Woods , Emily Harrington , and Adam Stack. Then I actually left and moved to California for five years so that I could focus on my obsession with El Cap locally.

Let’s talk about the El Cap obsession.

I was one of the early explorers with Tommy Caldwell on the Dawn Wall . We rapped in from the summit and explored a few options down towards Wino Tower. During that time it was near the end of my stay in the Bay Area because my wife and I were ready to start a family and we decided to ditch California to raise our kids in Colorado.

I walked away with four free ascents and two first ascents. One was Magic Mushroom (28 pitch 5.13d/5/14a) with Tommy Caldwell , and another was with my prior student, Adam Stack . We ended up free climbing Salathe Wall (13.B) together.

Then you moved back to CO where you’ve been living happily ever after?

Louisville was kind of Loserville when we first bought our house in 1998. There were a couple of bars in Old Town in 1998 but by the time we moved back in 2007 it totally transformed.

Oh yeah, Main Street is poppin’ now. What happened when you moved back to Louisville?

Up until then, I’d been juggling routesetting, coaching, a professional climber life, and home life. My wife and I were starting paperwork for the kids—

Paperwork?

Both my boys are adopted from Ethiopia.

Oh, that’s amazing.

Yeah, so I switched my career so I could be less of a typical climber. You know climbers; very fluid with where they live and what they do. I started thinking about having a regular income, something more than minimum wage started mattering to me. That’s when I became obsessed with coaching, but that had always what I wanted to be recognized as. Even when I was younger, I wanted to see where coaching would take me. I feel like this is something I’m skilled at.

What’s your coaching philosophy?

My philosophy currently is that I like to understand the athlete and their personality. I strongly believe your climbing should reflect who you are, but often it does not, and I try to line those backup, so you’re true to yourself. I want to have a better understanding of who you are and help the athlete explore ways to express themselves.

I don’t believe there’s a mold. I believe everyone has a unique skillset and I celebrate that uniqueness—and who knows where it takes them.

Do you coach any level?

Yes. I like working with people of all abilities because it helps me stay engaged and I like a balance between them all. I coach people all over the world. Some people travel. I have a client who’s an adaptive climber from Australia, I have some very intense weekend warriors that are very high level, and some are people who are brand new and figuring out how to move forward.

How old is your oldest climber?

My oldest regular clients are from Alaska, and they’re probably in their solid 80’s. They’re amazing athletes.

Can I snag some bragging rights from you for this article? (Awkward laughter.)

I’ve worked with a number of athletes. A lot of times I don’t like to spray. I do practice discretion.

Yeah but…maybe just a few?

(Laughter) Alex Puccio is someone people know. I’ve also worked with Jim Collins , who has advised Oprah and The Pentagon. We have great convos. He sees how focused I am and how I’m always striving to hone my craft further and further. I’m fairly intense about that.

What has climbing given you?

Climbing has given me focus, direction, a sense of accomplishment, and a sense of worth. It’s given me the framework to set goals and achieve them. As time has led on, I believe even more strongly in my philosophy that how you approach your climbing is how you approach your life, and often we don’t know how to change our behaviors in our life, but the desire to change the way we climb can transform the choices we make.

That is accurate for me. What’s your vision for working with EVO?

I love at this point that I see an opportunity to hopefully have a positive impact on people. I’ve seen the climbing industry grow and grow. I’m excited to help shape a community where I feel safe, and others feel safe sharing ideas; where we’re thinking about the future direction of climbing because I think we’re at a pivotal point. The community needs to take ownership of the direction of climbing, not let it go wherever.

I have faith in the future generation; I see it with my son’s friends at school. Acceptance has changed.

What enticed you to work with EVO?

EVO has this business idea that they’re always evolving and that means they’re always striving to do better. It means excitement to progress. I would love to hire a number of coaches that strive to run their own programs, but I don’t believe in building an army, I believe in a program that builds amazing people, and the byproduct is amazing climbers.

One last question: what do you love about Louisville?

I love the fact that I can have free-range kids. I think Louisville is a great town for that, and I hope more families have the courage to do so.

For information on EVO Team and Club Programs visit: www.evorock.com/louisville-co/kids/ . Stay tuned on our Facebook: bit.ly/2gTawdI or sign up for our newsletter by going to www.evorock.com/louisville-co/
Feature photo: Sjong on PreMuir – El Capitan Yosemite National Park (5.13c/d, 33 pitches) Photo Cred: Tim Kemple

What’s the Difference Between “Free Climbing” and “Free Soloing?”

Wed, 13 Jul 2016 10:31:36 GMT

Written by Abree Murch of EVO Concord

A frequently asked question among humans who are unfamiliar (or new) to climbing, might be: “What’s the difference between “free climbing” and “free soloing?” The mainstream media struggled hard with this during the coverage of Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson’s Dawn Wall ascent, and most climbing gym staff will tell you that if they had a nickel for every time they hear these two terms confused, they’d easily be able to buy a brand new trad rack. Let’s set the record straight:

Free climbing is a term that was coined to describe any style of climbing that does not involve aids. Aids can range from ascenders to skyhooks to ladders, but their purpose is the same: the climber puts their full weight on the gear to directly assist in moving up the wall. In free climbing, the climber moves up the wall under their own power without using any special gear to help them move upward (excluding climbing shoes). However, most styles of climbing that are considered free climbing do use some sort of protection in case of a fall. Top roping, sport climbing, and trad climbing are all forms of free climbing that involve protective gear (a rope, cams, bolts, quickdraws, etc.), but, again, none of it directly helps the climber up the wall.

Free soloing is a type of free climbing that involves climbing routes with no aids or protection whatsoever – no trad gear, no bolts, no rope, nothing to catch a fall. Some consider it the purest form of climbing, but it is also extremely dangerous since a single mistake can mean almost certain death. This type of climbing has been pioneered most recently by Alex Honnold and the late Dean Potter .

Free soloing is strictly forbidden in gym settings, but if you’re curious about other forms of free climbing, stop by or check out our current program schedule – we offer classes for all ages and ability levels!

Nicholas Foster Answers FAQ’s About Bouldering

Wed, 08 Jun 2016 10:25:29 GMT

Boulders: We love them. We climb them. And inevitably, we fall off them. Here’s what Nicholas Foster (Head Route Setter at EVO Portland) said about risks while bouldering.

Disclaimer – this is but one human’s opinion.

What’s the proper way to spot?

“Keep your thumbs in, and don’t try to catch the climber- just try to push them toward the crash pad. The goal is to let the crash pad do its job.”

Why “keep your thumbs in?”

“Because if not, the climber can fall on them (your thumbs) and bend them backwards. This hurts.”

Do I need a spot for all the boulders I climb on?

“Depends on your experience level; if you’re an experienced outdoor climber, I’d say no. I boulder alone sometimes, but if I don’t have a spotter, I’m sure to have a crash pad and ensure it’s properly situated.

The pad isn’t for protecting every single spot you might fall; it’s for protecting the spot you’re most likely to fall; assess each boulder before climbing, and think about where that point might be. The pad should be placed where you’re most likely to get hurt in the event of a fall, mitigating the most potential danger.”

What else should I know about crash pads?

“Potentially the highest cause of injury while bouldering is due to neglected seam coverage or improper spotting. Some companies aim to mitigate the hazard of seams. For instance, Mad Rock has Velcro flaps that can attach to the adjacent pad, therefore eliminating the seam. Want one? Just stop by our gear shop and pick one up!”

Why are seams so dangerous?

“If your foot goes in between two pads or the fold of a pad, your foot and ankle will stay there while the rest of your body travels in the fall line. This can result in a slew of tendon related injuries.”

Overall, what’s the best way to stay safe while bouldering outside?

Go with someone who is experienced. Climbing is a community, be part of it.

Featured image—Nicholas Foster chalks up for King Troll at Red Rocks Canyon, Nevada, March 2016. EVO Portland member Alan Brackett waits to spot. Photo cred: Steven Barry